For as long as I had cooked, the Italian nonna – the principle of her, anyway – had been an exasperating presence at my shoulder. That stout, impatient matron, no longer young but foremost at the stove, arms folded and breathing soft, Cynar-scented disapproval on my neck. Constructed a meal around a morning’s market-haul of simple, perfect produce. Her instinct for food was marrow-deep, beyond thought, neurological. Curry leaves, fresh herbs such as coriander and mint, green chillies and fresh coconut can all be frozen for meals that transport you to more exotic climes after a long day’s work.
- Laurie Colwin writes about food with love, lightness and an elegant intimacy reminding us that cooking is about life not recipes.
- Nisha, a dedicated curry evangelist, has fond hopes for Mowgli’s growth and she still insists on hand picking curry virgins for her kitchens, hand training each new Mowgli chef.